Not what you might expect – close encounters in China

View of Taihuai with its temples and the stupa of Tayuan Si, at the heart of Wutai Shan, Shanxi province, China.

I recently visited Wu Tai Shan, a Buddhist mountain in Shanxi Province, China, with an old nun-friend and a film crew of thirty young Beijing production people. It was Dragon Boat Festival and Wu Tai’s many temples were thronged with pilgrims from all over China paying their respects to the deities. I met worshippers, discussed Buddhist psychology and ate with the lively crew.

The atmosphere was vibrant, the pilgrims friendly, the monks and nuns thoughtful, all practising an ancient philosophy that seems eminently modern to me: by cultivating good relations with ourselves and the world, we restore our common humanity, finding that most people are just like us – they want to be happy, safe, free from suffering, and respected for who they are. Relationship is everything.

I’ve been going to China for 50 years. First, from colonial Hong Kong where I lived with my Chinese husband, taking slow trains to the Canton Trade Fair and tours to Xi’an, Shanghai, Hua Shan. These days I go to visit my son in Beijing. I’ve witnessed China’s extraordinary material and technological transformation, its high-speed trains, EVs, skyscrapers and science parks. But it is China’s humanity I relish and its enduring, pragmatic relational philosophy for living well.

Australian mainstream media does us all a great disservice with its steady drip-feed of sinophobic stories. Light on fact, heavy on one-sided opinion citing spurious “incidents” and unsubstantiated “cyber threats”, this unbalanced portrayal of China only reinforces the simplistic script of winners and losers, good guys (us) and bad guys (them). War becomes “inevitable”, armament sales soar and suspicion and ignorance of the real China is maintained. Isn’t it time to replace the tired and false binary narrative with stories based in the multipolar reality of our common humanity?

Like every country, China has its contradictions, a ‘perennial tension between eternal principles and present realities’, observed historian and broadcaster Michael Wood. But it also has a secret weapon for dealing with that existential tension, a tried and tested systemic view of the way things are cultivated for millennia: Everything is relationship. This collectivist outlook is reflected in personal dealings as well as government guidelines: Co-exist in harmony whilst accommodating differences. It’s an aspiration of course. China, like all nations, has many differences. But aspiration is powerful in shaping the behaviour of individuals and societies. During my stay I encountered a dynamic society functioning harmoniously for the wellbeing of its people. A society of 1.4 billion where co-existing in harmony is a necessity not an ideal.

That pragmatic relational philosophy wove its way into the conversations I had on my trip: with writers and directors, up to date with international news, who acknowledge censorship but point out it’s not unique to China. A Beijing journalist friend, who left Associated Press after its requirement for ‘bad China’ stories became too onerous, was perplexed by the Australian media’s unrelenting negativity towards our biggest trading partner. A Taiwanese producer in Shanghai suggested politely that when it comes to cross-Strait matters: “Chinese will sort out their own business”. University students returning from Canada were changed by their experience but eager to contribute to their country. My 94-year-old sister-in-law came back after 60 years in the UK for the “integrative and reasonable healthcare” and respect shown the elderly.

Newer visitors, intrepid Caucasians touting the latest video technology, were posting similar views on YouTube: “Americans first time in China: NOT AT ALL what we expected.” Sammy and Tommy visit Beijing on a four-day transit. They’re surprised by how “peaceful” and “green” this city of 22 million is. They eat Peking Duck for US$24, pronouncing China very affordable. Locals greet them with smiles as they video their way through Jingshan Park, the Drum and Bell Towers and other old Peking sights. The friendliness of the natives, another surprise. Aren’t Chinese supposed to be repressed, censored, hostile? Yet here they are walking and dancing in lush parks, eating fine food with their families, watching their children play, catching fast trains, greeting incomprehensible visitors.

“China has completely blown away my preconceptions,” declares Harry Jaggard after his visit to Shanghai with three British mates. On arrival they’re full of questions: Didn’t China “resist capitalism”? No, says their patient guide, it just prioritised the task of feeding 800 million people first. “What about all the surveillance?” The guide acknowledges the downside of ubiquitous cameras – less privacy. The upside is safe streets 24/7, women feeling secure, zero vandalism, pristine public spaces. At Jing’an Temple another stereotype is blown away. Instead of religious persecution, they meet devout Buddhists and learn that 30% of Chinese are agnostic/atheist, the rest Buddhists, Taoists, Muslims and Christians.

Canadian Alina McLeod concurs: It’s “Not what I expected”. She arrives in Guangzhou at midnight equipped with an Alipay account and takes a Didi ride to her downtown hotel where she’s pleasantly surprised by the comfortable room (US$45/night). Next day she gets “the biggest culture shock in a decade”: “Guangzhou is so modern”. Alipay works for her congee breakfast, Airalo ensures an e-sim card. She feels safe as a lone female on the streets and visits Shamian Island, launch-site for the colonial powers’ 19th century opium trade. China’s resistance triggered the Opium Wars, Hong Kong the retribution price. History not forgotten.

Another Brit, @snidelab, is upfront: “China’s not utopia.” But he’s made it his home for 12 years raising two children with his Chinese wife. “No country’s perfect…it’s about your mindset.” For him, China’s been welcoming, and safe for his kids. And freedom of speech? “Why should we be free to say horrible things online anonymously without any accountability”? He’d rather his sons learn respect and empathy, recognising the interdependency of their wellbeing with others.

Instead of bashing the People’s Republic of China for doing things differently, perhaps we could learn something from the principles for peaceful co-existence put forward 70 years ago by Zhou Enlai, its respected founding Premier, which guide Chinese policy to this day. These include mutual respect, non-interference in others’ internal matters, and equality and co-operation for mutual benefit. Australia has benefited greatly from cooperation with China. It’s called trade and it’s been win/win. Co-operation and mutual respect not deluded journalism will determine whether humanity has a shared future – or no future. Win/lose isn’t an option.

Meg Hart 

Meg Hart is an organisational psychologist and writer. She spent over 30 years in Hong Kong and China and is a graduate and post-graduate of Hong Kong and Sydney Universities. Currently a Fellow and Guest Lecturer at Nan Tien Institute for Buddhist Studies in Wollongong, she is writing a book about her lived experience of the two different but potentially complementary cultures of China and Australia.